This time: a guest post written by Saar.
Want to know why Saar wrote and not me? Read on and find out. 😉
When we started planning our trip to Vietnam, we quickly noticed that almost every video and blog post mentions the famous loop: the Ha Giang Loop (pronounced “Ah-Zang” by locals). From the beginning, I knew that this was a loop I wanted to do.
A Bit of Background:
The Ha Giang Loop is a circular route in Ha Giang province (surprise! 😄) in northern Vietnam.
The loop stretches between 350 and 500 km and is usually done by motorbike or off-road vehicle over a very intense 3–4 days.
The route takes you through breathtaking scenery, winding roads (in Thailand’s Pai we counted 762 bends, in Ha Giang, no one even bothers to count…), villages, and mountains.
Riding Pace on the Loop
Most roads are in fair condition, but “fair” by Southeast Asian standards. Generally, roads are paved, but behind every curve, there could be a dirt patch, pothole, truck, or a wandering cow.
These conditions limit your speed, which is usually between 30–50 km/h.
But wait, I’m getting ahead of myself. Let’s go back a bit to planning and the different options available.
So Who Goes on the Loop?
When Ravit and I discussed the loop, we tried to understand what options would suit us. Ravit’s not a big fan of motorbikes, and three days of riding could have ended at the rabbinical court (aka divorce 😅).
A jeep tour with a driver was also out for similar reasons.
In the end, we decided I would go on the loop, and Ravit would stay in Hanoi and “explore the city.”
Self-Guided or Group Tour?
Next dilemma: to do it independently (as I did with the Mae Hong Son Loop in Thailand) or join a guided group?
I decided to try a group tour, it’s nice having someone arrange accommodation, transport, the bike, etc.
The cost difference between a solo trip and a group one was minimal, just a few dozens of dollars, so it wasn’t a big factor.
In hindsight, one big downside of group travel is that you have to keep to the group’s pace.
You can’t stop spontaneously to admire the view, take photos, or rest. All stops are pre-planned.
If you like to stop and photograph every wandering cow or woman carrying leaves, keep that in mind.
Riding Solo or with an Easy Rider?
The loop is long, challenging, and requires a valid motorbike license.
Don’t underestimate this, police checkpoints are common, and every rider gets stopped at least once.
For me, riding is part of the experience, so it was a no-brainer.
My daughter, for example, has a license but preferred to ride on the back with an Easy Rider.
Which Companies Offer Ha Giang Loop Tours?
There are quite a few tour companies running Ha Giang Loop trips, all doing roughly the same route.
The most well-known ones are:
- Happy: +84 338097000
- BB: +84 979510244
- Kai: +84 961123307
- Jasmine: +84 1675299476
Happy, BB, and Kai are especially popular among Israeli travelers, you’ll often see full groups of Israelis riding together.
Kai was the first I contacted.
My daughter did the loop with Kai a week before I planned to, and she advised against them due to some chaos: not enough drivers, so a whole group ended up in a van instead of on bikes, and there were food issues at one of the hotels.
Next, I tried Happy. He answered a couple of my WhatsApp questions, but when I asked about riding solo, he disappeared…
Third (and final) was Jasmine.
I paid $150 for a solo ride + $15/night to upgrade to private rooms.
The price was a bit higher than other companies but included entrance to sites like the flag tower, a cave, and a river boat ride.
It also included a sleeper bus from Hanoi to Ha Giang, accommodation during the trip, and meals. Drinks (even water) were not included, which was slightly annoying.
The standard bike included was a 110cc semi-automatic scooter. Upgrading to a 125cc or 150cc costs $15–25 per day.
I debated upgrading but figured, if a 110cc works for the locals, it’ll work for me too 😊.
How to Sign Up and Get to Ha Giang
After choosing Jasmine, I went to her office in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, paid for the tour, and chose my departure time (morning or evening). The price includes a hotel night in Ha Giang and a VIP sleeper bus.
What to Pack for the Loop?
Clothing: Depends on the season, remember it’s cold in the mountains, so you’ll usually need a jacket (especially when riding).
I personally prefer long clothing and closed shoes while riding, even if it’s hot. (Bikers always say the asphalt is hotter…)
Money: Up to you. The agency suggests bringing 1-2 million VND. I spent less than 300,000, mainly on dinner and water.
Also bring:
- Camera
- Power bank
- Swimsuit + towel (for the river’s swim, hotels provide towels for in-room use only)
Hitting the Road…
We left Hanoi at 11:30 AM. After a 6-7 hour sleeper ride, we arrived in Ha Giang.
(Heads-up: in sleeper buses you lie down. If you’re taller than 1.8m, it’s tight, and you can’t sit upright.)
On the first evening, before starting the loop, I noticed two things:
- I could be the father of most of the travelers, almost all were 19-20 years old (with a few “old” 24-25 year-olds who told me they felt old 😅). I’m 51. You do the math…
- I was the only Israeli in the group, 110 people, all Europeans/Americans.
Day 1 of the Loop
The easiest day: 80 km of riding to the town of Yen Minh.
The route goes through beautiful scenery, and we stopped for a short hike to Lung Khuy Cave.
We ended the day in a homestay in Yen Minh with dinner, happy water (a nasty rice alcohol), and a karaoke party.
Day 2 of the Ha Giang Loop
Wake-up at 7:30 AM, breakfast, get ready, refuel, and off we go.
Well, almost. Right outside town, police checkpoint: license check.
They asked for our international motorbike license and Israeli plastic license.
One rider didn’t have one, got fined $60, and then we continued…
This day was packed with highlights.
We started in 9°C weather and thick fog, and soon reached Tham Ma Pass, the famous winding road view.
Luckily, the fog cleared enough to enjoy the scenery.
As soon as we stopped, local girls from the Hmong tribe approached the girls in our group, offering braids or flowers.
As much as it hurts, it’s better not to pay them, they should be in school.
Vietnam now offers free education starting in 2025 to reduce this problem.
From there, we rode through cold mountain roads to the Chinese border, stopping at the flag tower and Hmong King’s Palace.
Next was Pai Lung, another famous viewpoint.
We parked and walked a few minutes up to the “photo rock.”
In pictures it looks like you’re on top of the world and completely alone. Reality? Half-hour wait in line to take a photo. 😅
Honestly, it’s scary. A narrow rock path, half a meter wide. I crawled. Some walked like it was a promenade.
Maybe I’m just too old for this kind of thing 😆.
You can continue climbing to the summit, but I skipped it due to time.
Then, we rode 40 minutes to a very mediocre hotel in Meo Vac.
After 120 km of riding and tons of experiences, we had dinner, more happy water, a party until 11:00 PM, and then sleep.
Day 3 of the Loop
The toughest day.
We started with a 30 km ride through mountain dirt roads, more like off-roading, fog, rain, and cold.
In short, we couldn’t really see where we were going.
When we got to the river, the weather improved.
We went on a short boat ride, and those who wanted could swim. I skipped swimming in that cold, but some people went for it.
Then we headed back 30 km the other way.
That was basically the end of the loop.
From there, it was another 120 km of scenic winding roads back to Ha Giang.
Just outside town, another police checkpoint. This time: breathalyzer tests for all foreign riders.
(They don’t change mouthpieces or check locals.)
Fines for drinking and driving: $60.
One guy in our group had a bit too much fun the night before and had to pay.
We arrived back at our starting point around 6:00 PM.
That’s it. I finished the Ha Giang Loop!
Conclusion
The Ha Giang Loop is an amazing experience for those willing to spend hours on a motorbike or jeep.
It was very interesting being the only Israeli in a group of foreigners.
Those I spoke to were very curious about the situation in Israel and the war’s impact.
I learned a lot from them too, especially from a German couple in their 20s who shared their perspective on the Holocaust, Germany’s responsibility, and how it affects their daily lives.
It was also fascinating to hear from the guide about local culture and life in Vietnam.
As I said earlier, I missed being able to stop spontaneously for photos, not just at scheduled points.
That’s a drawback of group travel.
Other than that, an amazing and highly recommended experience.
Short video of the happy water ritual:
